Tile vs Hardwood in the Kitchen: Complete 2026 Comparison for NJ Homeowners

Choosing between tile and hardwood is one of the biggest flooring decisions NJ homeowners face during a kitchen remodel. Both are premium materials. Both look beautiful. Both can last for decades. So which one actually makes more sense for your kitchen?

The honest answer is: it depends on how you use your kitchen, how much maintenance you're willing to do, and what matters most to you -- water resistance or warmth underfoot. There is no universally "better" material, but there is almost certainly a better material for you.

In this guide, we break down every factor that matters -- cost, durability, water resistance, maintenance, comfort, and resale value -- with pricing specific to New Jersey. As a kitchen and bathroom remodeling company based in Ewing Township, NJ, we've installed hundreds of kitchen floors in both materials over the past 25+ years. These insights come from real projects in real NJ homes, not manufacturer spec sheets.

Quick Answer: Tile vs Hardwood for Kitchens

Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Here's the full tile vs hardwood comparison at a glance. We'll dig into each category in detail below.

Types of Kitchen Tile

"Tile" covers a wide range of materials, and the type you choose dramatically affects cost, performance, and appearance. Here are the five main categories we install in NJ kitchens.

Porcelain Tile

Porcelain is the gold standard for kitchen tile flooring. It's made from refined clay fired at extremely high temperatures (2,200--2,400°F), which creates a dense, hard surface with a water absorption rate below 0.5%. This makes porcelain virtually waterproof -- a critical advantage in kitchens.

Porcelain tile rates a 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, meaning it resists scratches from dropped utensils, pet claws, and dragged furniture. It's available in an enormous range of sizes, colors, patterns, and finishes -- including remarkably realistic wood and stone looks. For NJ kitchens, we recommend porcelain with a PEI rating of 4 or 5 (the highest durability ratings) and a textured or matte finish for slip resistance.

NJ pricing: $10--$20 per square foot installed, depending on tile size, pattern complexity, and subfloor prep.

Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tile is porcelain's more affordable cousin. It's made from a less refined clay and fired at lower temperatures, resulting in a softer, more porous body. Ceramic tile absorbs 1--3% moisture (compared to porcelain's less than 0.5%), so it's not as water-resistant -- but it's still far superior to hardwood in a kitchen environment.

Ceramic works well for kitchens with moderate traffic and homeowners on a tighter budget. It's easier to cut and install than porcelain, which can slightly reduce labor costs. The main downsides: it chips more easily than porcelain, and the design is typically printed on the surface (so chips reveal a different-colored clay body underneath).

NJ pricing: $8--$14 per square foot installed.

Natural Stone Tile

Natural stone tile -- including marble, slate, travertine, and limestone -- brings a unique, organic beauty to kitchen floors that manufactured tiles can't fully replicate. Each tile is genuinely one of a kind.

The trade-off is maintenance. Natural stone is porous and requires regular sealing (every 6--12 months for kitchen floors). Marble scratches relatively easily. Slate can flake. Limestone etches from acidic spills like lemon juice or vinegar. If you're willing to commit to the maintenance, natural stone creates a stunning kitchen floor. If not, porcelain tile that mimics stone is a much more practical alternative.

NJ pricing: $15--$25 per square foot installed (varies widely by stone type).

Large-Format Tile

Large-format tiles (12"x24", 24"x24", or even 24"x48") have become increasingly popular in NJ kitchen remodels. The larger the tile, the fewer grout lines -- which creates a cleaner, more modern look and means less grout to maintain over time.

Large-format tile requires a perfectly level subfloor and a skilled installer. The installation cost runs slightly higher because of the precision needed and the special handling required to avoid cracking during installation. But the visual payoff is significant -- a kitchen floor with minimal grout lines looks sleek and expansive.

NJ pricing: $12--$22 per square foot installed.

Wood-Look Tile

Wood-look porcelain tile is arguably the fastest-growing kitchen flooring trend in New Jersey right now. These tiles are shaped like hardwood planks (typically 6"x36" or 8"x48") and feature inkjet-printed surfaces that mimic real wood grain, knots, and color variation with remarkable realism.

We'll cover wood-look tile in more detail in its own section below, because it's become such a popular "best of both worlds" choice.

NJ pricing: $10--$18 per square foot installed.

Types of Hardwood for Kitchens

Not all hardwood is created equal, and the type you choose matters significantly in a kitchen environment. Here's what works and what to avoid.

Solid Hardwood

Solid hardwood is exactly what it sounds like -- a single piece of wood, typically 3/4" thick. It's the traditional choice and offers the most authentic wood feel and appearance. The biggest advantage of solid hardwood is that it can be refinished multiple times (3--5 times over its lifetime), which means scratches, stains, and wear can be sanded away and the floor brought back to like-new condition.

The biggest risk with solid hardwood in a kitchen is moisture. Solid wood expands when it absorbs moisture and contracts when it dries out. In New Jersey, where summer humidity regularly hits 70--80% and winter heating systems dry the air to 20--30%, this seasonal expansion and contraction can cause gaps, cupping, and buckling -- especially near sinks and dishwashers.

NJ pricing: $12--$20 per square foot installed.

Engineered Hardwood

Engineered hardwood is a more modern and kitchen-friendly alternative. It features a thin layer of real hardwood on top (the "wear layer," typically 2--6mm thick) bonded to multiple layers of plywood or high-density fiberboard underneath. This cross-layer construction gives engineered hardwood significantly better dimensional stability than solid hardwood -- meaning it expands and contracts much less with humidity changes.

For NJ kitchens specifically, we almost always recommend engineered hardwood over solid if the homeowner wants a wood floor. It handles our four-season climate much better, and versions with a thick wear layer (4mm+) can still be refinished once or twice. The look and feel are virtually identical to solid hardwood -- most people can't tell the difference once it's installed.

NJ pricing: $10--$18 per square foot installed.

Popular Species: Oak, Maple, and Walnut

The wood species you choose affects hardness, appearance, and how well the floor holds up in a kitchen:

• White Oak -- Our top recommendation for kitchen hardwood. White oak scores 1,360 on the Janka hardness scale and has a tighter grain structure than red oak, making it more naturally water-resistant. It's the most popular hardwood species for NJ kitchen remodels by a wide margin.
• Red Oak -- Slightly softer (1,290 Janka) and more porous than white oak, but more affordable and widely available. Red oak has a more pronounced grain pattern with a warm, pinkish tone. It works in kitchens but is more susceptible to water damage than white oak.
• Maple -- Very hard (1,450 Janka) with a subtle, fine grain that creates a clean, contemporary look. Maple resists dents and scratches well but can be tricky to stain evenly due to its density. It's a good choice for modern kitchens where you want a lighter, more uniform floor.
• Walnut -- Rich, dark brown with a beautiful swirling grain pattern. Walnut is softer (1,010 Janka) than oak or maple, making it more prone to dents and scratches in a high-traffic kitchen. We typically recommend walnut only for kitchens with lighter traffic or homeowners who embrace the character of natural wear.
• Hickory -- The hardest domestic hardwood commonly used for flooring (1,820 Janka). Extremely durable but has a rustic, high-variation appearance that doesn't suit every kitchen style.

Cost Comparison: Tile vs Hardwood in NJ

Cost is usually the first question homeowners ask. Here's the real-world pricing we see in the New Jersey market -- not national averages from a magazine article.

Installed Cost Per Square Foot

Total Project Cost: A Typical NJ Kitchen

Most NJ kitchens run 100--150 square feet of floor space. Using a 120 sq ft average, here's what each option costs for a complete, professionally installed kitchen floor:

Important NJ cost note: These prices include professional installation, basic subfloor prep, and materials. They do not include demo and removal of existing flooring ($2--$4/sq ft), extensive subfloor repair, transition strips to adjoining rooms, or custom patterns. NJ labor rates run 10--20% above the national average due to licensing requirements and higher cost of living. The state requires licensed home improvement contractors for kitchen renovations, which protects you but adds to the cost compared to states with looser regulations.

Long-Term Cost of Ownership

Initial cost only tells part of the story. Over a 25-year period, hardwood requires refinishing 2--3 times at $3--$8 per square foot each time (that's $360--$960 per refinishing for a 120 sq ft kitchen). Tile requires grout resealing ($1--$2/sq ft) every 1--2 years. When you factor in long-term maintenance, mid-range porcelain tile and mid-range engineered hardwood end up costing roughly the same over 25 years. But if the hardwood suffers water damage -- which is more likely in a kitchen -- the repair or replacement cost can quickly tip the balance toward tile being the more economical long-term choice.

Durability & Lifespan

Kitchens are high-traffic zones. Dropped pots, spilled liquids, dragged chairs, pet claws, and constant foot traffic all take a toll on your floor. Here's how tile and hardwood hold up.

Tile Durability

Porcelain tile is exceptionally hard -- rating 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, which is harder than a steel knife blade. It's virtually scratch-proof, dent-proof, and stain-proof. Dropped cast iron pans, dragged appliances, and pet claws won't leave a mark. The glaze on porcelain tile is baked in at temperatures above 2,000°F, making it permanent and fade-resistant.

The main vulnerability of tile is cracking from heavy point impact. If you drop a heavy cast iron skillet from counter height directly onto a tile, it can crack. This is uncommon but not impossible. The good news: individual cracked tiles can be replaced without touching the rest of the floor.

Expected lifespan: 25--50+ years. Many tile floors outlast the kitchens they're installed in.

Hardwood Durability

Hardwood is durable but not in the same way tile is. It's a softer material that will show wear over time -- scratches from pet claws, dents from dropped objects, and wear patterns in high-traffic paths. This wear is part of hardwood's character for some homeowners and a frustration for others.

The compensating advantage is refinishing. Solid hardwood can be sanded down and refinished 3--5 times over its lifetime, essentially giving you a brand-new floor each time. This is hardwood's superpower: where a damaged tile must be individually replaced, a damaged hardwood floor can be completely renewed.

Expected lifespan: 25+ years with refinishing every 7--10 years. Some hardwood floors last 50--100 years with proper care.

Water & Moisture Resistance

This is the single most important difference between tile and hardwood in a kitchen. Kitchens are wet environments -- splashes from the sink, spills from cooking, steam from boiling pots, dishwasher leaks, and refrigerator condensation all expose your floor to moisture daily.

Tile: Built for Water

Porcelain tile absorbs less than 0.5% moisture. Ceramic absorbs 1--3%. Both are effectively waterproof for kitchen purposes. Standing water on a tile floor is not a crisis -- you wipe it up when you get to it. Even a dishwasher leak that goes unnoticed for hours is unlikely to damage a properly installed tile floor with sealed grout.

The weak point in a tile floor's water resistance is the grout. Unsealed or cracked grout can allow water to seep through to the subfloor. This is why grout sealing matters -- sealed grout, combined with waterproof tile, creates a virtually impervious kitchen floor surface.

Hardwood: Water Is the Enemy

Wood and water don't mix. Standing water on a hardwood floor -- even for 30 minutes -- can cause staining, warping, and finish damage. A prolonged leak (from a dishwasher, ice maker, or supply line) can destroy hardwood flooring to the point that entire sections need replacement, not just refinishing.

In a kitchen specifically, the highest-risk zones are directly in front of the sink, around the dishwasher, and near the refrigerator's water line (if you have an ice maker or water dispenser). These are the spots where slow leaks and daily splash exposure can cause the most damage over time.

Engineered hardwood handles moisture better than solid because its plywood core doesn't expand and contract as dramatically. But it's still wood -- and it still needs to be kept dry. If you choose hardwood for your kitchen, plan on using mats in front of the sink and being vigilant about wiping up spills immediately.

Maintenance Comparison

Both materials need care to look their best long-term, but the type and frequency of maintenance are quite different.

Tile Maintenance

• Daily: Sweep or vacuum to remove grit (grit on tile acts like sandpaper underfoot and can dull the finish over time). Damp mop with a mild cleaner as needed.
• Every 1--2 years: Reseal grout lines. This takes about 30--60 minutes for a typical kitchen and costs $1--$2 per square foot if you hire a professional or $15--$25 for a DIY grout sealant.
• Every 10--20 years: Grout may need replacing if it has cracked, crumbled, or become permanently discolored. Regrout costs $5--$10 per square foot in NJ.
• As needed: Individual cracked or chipped tiles can be replaced without disturbing the rest of the floor. Keep leftover tiles from your installation for this purpose.

Hardwood Maintenance

• Daily: Sweep or vacuum with a hard-floor attachment (no beater bar). Wipe up any spills immediately -- this is not optional with hardwood.
• Weekly: Damp mop with a hardwood-safe cleaner. Never use excess water, steam mops, or vinegar-based cleaners on hardwood.
• Every 3--5 years: Screen and recoat (a light refreshing of the finish) to maintain the protective layer. Costs $2--$4 per square foot in NJ.
• Every 7--10 years: Full sand and refinish. This involves sanding down the entire floor, applying new stain (optional), and multiple coats of polyurethane. Costs $3--$8 per square foot in NJ and takes 3--5 days during which the kitchen is unusable.
• Ongoing: Use felt pads on furniture legs, area rugs in high-traffic paths, and mats in front of the sink and stove. Remove shoes or use soft-soled slippers to reduce scratching.

Comfort & Temperature

If you spend a lot of time standing in your kitchen -- cooking elaborate meals, baking with the kids, or just chatting while someone else cooks -- how the floor feels underfoot matters more than you might think.

Hardwood: Naturally Warm and Forgiving

Hardwood is a natural insulator. It feels warm underfoot even in winter, and it has a slight give that's easier on your joints and back during long stretches of standing. This is one of the main reasons homeowners choose hardwood over tile for kitchens -- the comfort factor is real and noticeable, especially for anyone who spends hours cooking or baking.

Tile: Hard and Cold (Unless You Add Heat)

Tile is hard. There's no way around it. Standing on tile for extended periods can fatigue your feet, legs, and lower back more than standing on hardwood. Tile is also cold in winter -- in a New Jersey January, a tile kitchen floor can feel genuinely uncomfortable without socks or slippers.

Two solutions make tile much more comfortable:

• Anti-fatigue kitchen mats: Placing cushioned mats in front of the sink, stove, and prep areas eliminates most of the standing fatigue. This is a $50--$150 solution that most tile-kitchen owners use.
• Radiant floor heating: Electric radiant heating mats installed under tile make the floor warm and comfortable year-round. This adds $6--$12 per square foot to the installation cost in NJ but transforms the tile experience entirely. Many of our clients who install radiant heat under their kitchen tile say it's their favorite feature of the entire remodel.

NJ Climate Considerations

New Jersey's four distinct seasons create specific challenges for kitchen flooring. This section matters because what works in a stable climate (like Southern California or Florida) doesn't always hold up the same way in the Mid-Atlantic.

Summer: Humidity

NJ summers regularly bring 70--80% relative humidity. Without central air conditioning running consistently, indoor humidity can climb to levels that cause solid hardwood to expand, cup (edges rising higher than the center of each board), and potentially buckle. Engineered hardwood handles this much better. Tile is completely unaffected by humidity.

Winter: Dry Heat

When NJ homes switch to heating mode (typically November through March), indoor humidity can drop to 20--30%. This causes hardwood to contract, opening gaps between boards that are visible and can trap dirt. Whole-house humidifiers help, but many NJ homeowners don't have them or don't maintain them. Tile doesn't expand or contract with humidity changes -- the gaps stay the same year-round.

Temperature Swings

NJ kitchens can experience temperature swings of 30--40°F between a summer afternoon (85°F+) and a winter morning (50°F in an unconditioned kitchen before the heat kicks in). These swings stress hardwood more than tile because wood is an organic material that responds to temperature and moisture changes simultaneously.

The Verdict for NJ

If you choose hardwood for an NJ kitchen, engineered hardwood is significantly safer than solid. If you choose tile, you don't need to think about climate at all -- it handles everything NJ throws at it without flinching. This is one of the reasons tile has been gaining market share in NJ kitchens over the past decade.

The Luxury Vinyl Alternative

We'd be leaving you with an incomplete picture if we didn't mention luxury vinyl plank (LVP) and luxury vinyl tile (LVT). While this guide focuses on tile vs hardwood, luxury vinyl has become a legitimate third option for NJ kitchen floors -- and it's worth understanding where it fits.

What LVP/LVT Offers

• 100% waterproof: Unlike hardwood, LVP won't warp or swell from water exposure. It handles spills and even standing water without damage.
• Comfortable underfoot: The foam or cork backing makes LVP softer and warmer than tile, more similar to the feel of hardwood.
• Budget-friendly: $5--$10 per square foot installed in NJ -- significantly less than either tile or hardwood.
• Realistic designs: Modern LVP comes in convincing wood and stone looks with embossed textures.
• Easy installation: Most LVP floats over the subfloor with a click-lock system. Installation is faster and cheaper than tile or hardwood.

Where LVP Falls Short

• Resale value: Real estate agents and buyers still perceive LVP as "less than" real tile or hardwood. It adds less resale value per dollar spent.
• Lifespan: 15--25 years, compared to 25--50+ for tile or 25+ for hardwood. LVP cannot be refinished -- when it wears out, it's replaced entirely.
• Heavy appliances: Refrigerators, ranges, and kitchen islands can dent or damage LVP over time. Tile and hardwood handle heavy loads much better.
• Appearance up close: While LVP looks good from a distance, it doesn't have the depth and authenticity of real wood or the weight and substance of real tile. Discerning eyes can tell the difference.

Our Recommendation

LVP is a solid choice for budget-conscious homeowners, rental properties, or kitchens where you want the quickest and most affordable upgrade. But if you're investing in a kitchen remodel that you want to last and add value to your home, real tile or hardwood is the stronger long-term investment. Visit our flooring showroom to compare all three options side by side.

Wood-Look Porcelain Tile: The Best of Both Worlds?

Wood-look porcelain tile deserves its own section because it's the single most popular kitchen flooring choice in our NJ projects right now. It's exactly what it sounds like -- porcelain tile that's shaped like hardwood planks and printed to look like real wood.

How It Works

Modern wood-look tiles use high-definition inkjet printing technology to replicate specific wood species -- oak, walnut, reclaimed barnwood, weathered teak, and more. The best versions include textured surfaces that actually feel like wood grain when you run your hand over them. Plank sizes (typically 6"x36" or 8"x48") match standard hardwood plank dimensions, and manufacturers include multiple face designs per SKU so that adjacent tiles don't look identical.

Why NJ Homeowners Love It

• Visual warmth of wood with the water resistance, durability, and low maintenance of porcelain.
• Works with radiant floor heating -- so you get the warm look AND warm feet in winter.
• No expansion/contraction with NJ's seasonal humidity swings.
• Can be used in the entire kitchen, bathroom, and mudroom -- continuous flooring throughout water-prone areas where real hardwood would be risky.
• Scratch-proof and pet-proof -- large dogs, cats, kids with toys, and dragged furniture are all non-issues.

The Trade-Offs

• Feel underfoot: It's still tile. No matter how realistic the look, the floor feels hard and cold (unless you add radiant heat). It doesn't have the slight give and warmth of real wood.
• Grout lines: Hardwood has no grout lines. Wood-look tile does. Using a color-matched grout and rectified tiles with thin grout lines (1/16") minimizes this, but it's still noticeable if you look closely.
• Sound: Tile has a sharper, louder sound when you walk on it or drop something. Hardwood absorbs sound better.
• Cannot be refinished: If trends change in 15 years and you want a different look, you're replacing the tile. With real hardwood, you could simply refinish with a different stain.

NJ pricing for wood-look porcelain: $10--$18 per square foot installed. The installation cost is similar to regular porcelain tile, though the plank shape requires more precision in layout to achieve a natural, staggered pattern.

Resale Value in NJ

Both tile and hardwood add real value to your home, but they do it in slightly different ways.

Hardwood's Resale Advantage

Hardwood floors are consistently listed as one of the top features home buyers look for in the NJ real estate market. According to the National Association of Realtors, 54% of buyers are willing to pay more for a home with hardwood floors. Hardwood throughout the main level of a home creates a sense of warmth, quality, and continuity that photographs well in listings and appeals to a broad range of buyers.

Tile's Growing Appeal

While hardwood has the broader resale appeal, tile specifically in the kitchen is increasingly valued by NJ buyers. Savvy buyers (especially those who've owned homes before) know that hardwood in the kitchen is a maintenance liability. A beautiful tile floor in the kitchen -- especially large-format porcelain or high-quality wood-look tile -- signals that the kitchen was remodeled with practical, lasting materials. This is especially true in the higher-end NJ markets like Princeton, Pennington, and West Windsor, where buyers expect quality materials that will hold up.

The ROI Math

A kitchen remodel in NJ typically recoups 60--80% of its total investment at resale. The flooring alone accounts for roughly 10--15% of a typical kitchen remodel budget but can influence a buyer's perception of the entire space. A cheap or damaged floor makes the whole kitchen feel dated, while a premium tile or hardwood floor elevates everything around it. Either material is a significant upgrade over laminate, vinyl sheet, or worn-out linoleum and will pay for itself in perceived home value.

From Our Experience

After 25+ years of kitchen remodeling in New Jersey, here's what we've learned about tile vs hardwood from real projects in real homes.

What We See in NJ Kitchens

Porcelain tile -- especially wood-look porcelain -- has been steadily gaining ground in NJ kitchen remodels. Ten years ago, the majority of our kitchen clients chose hardwood to match their living room and dining room floors. Today, it's closer to 60/40 in favor of tile for the kitchen specifically, even when the rest of the house has hardwood. Homeowners are getting smarter about the water risk, and the quality of wood-look tile has improved dramatically.

Most Common Regrets We Hear

• Hardwood in a heavy-use kitchen: "I wish we'd done tile. We're always worrying about water around the sink and the dog's nails are destroying it." This is the single most common flooring regret we hear from NJ homeowners.
• Cheap tile that looks generic: "We saved money on the tile but now it looks like a commercial building." Budget ceramic tile in small sizes (12x12) can look institutional if not paired with quality grout work and a thoughtful layout.
• Not matching the rest of the house:"The tile looks great in the kitchen but the transition to our hardwood living room is awkward." Transition planning is critical -- we always discuss this before installation.
• Skipping radiant heat under tile:"I love the tile but my feet are freezing in January. Wish we'd added the heated floor." Radiant heat adds $6--$12/sq ft but is much easier and cheaper to install during the remodel than to add later.

What We Recommend

There's no one-size-fits-all answer, but here's our general guidance based on hundreds of NJ kitchen projects:

• For most NJ kitchens: Porcelain tile (especially wood-look) with radiant heat is the sweet spot. Maximum durability, water protection, and comfort.
• For open floor plans: If the kitchen opens directly to a living area with hardwood, engineered hardwood in the kitchen creates beautiful continuity. Just accept the extra maintenance and water risk.
• For busy family kitchens: Tile, without question. Kids, pets, spills, and heavy traffic are tile's home turf.
• For budget renovations: Quality ceramic tile in a larger format (12x24 or larger) gives you excellent value. Or consider LVP if the budget is very tight.
• For high-end kitchens: Large-format porcelain tile (24x48 or larger) or natural stone creates a luxury statement. Premium engineered hardwood (wide plank white oak) is the hardwood choice that best bridges beauty and practicality.

Which Should You Choose? A Decision Guide

Use this quick decision framework to zero in on the right kitchen floor for your specific situation.

By Budget

• Under $1,200 (120 sq ft): Ceramic tile or LVP
• $1,200--$2,000: Porcelain tile, wood-look tile, or engineered hardwood
• $2,000--$3,000+: Premium porcelain, natural stone, solid hardwood, or wide-plank engineered

By Home Style

• Traditional / Colonial: Hardwood (oak or maple) matches the classic NJ Colonial aesthetic
• Modern / Contemporary: Large-format porcelain tile in concrete-look or marble-look finishes
• Farmhouse / Rustic: Wood-look porcelain tile (reclaimed wood look) or wide-plank oak
• Transitional: Wood-look porcelain tile bridges traditional warmth and modern durability

By Family Situation

• Young kids: Tile -- waterproof, stain-proof, and virtually indestructible
• Large dogs: Tile or wood-look tile -- claws destroy hardwood finish
• Small dogs / cats: Either works; hardwood may show minor scratches over time
• Empty nesters: Whichever you prefer aesthetically -- lower traffic means hardwood holds up fine
• Aging in place: Tile with radiant heat (slip-resistant matte finish) for easy wheelchair/walker use

By Cooking Habits

• Heavy cooking (daily meals from scratch): Tile -- handles splashes, grease, dropped utensils, and heavy standing time better
• Light cooking / mostly takeout: Either works -- the kitchen floor faces less stress
• Frequent entertaining: Tile for the cooking zone, but consider how the floor transitions to your entertaining areas
• Home baking: Hardwood is more comfortable for long standing sessions; tile with anti-fatigue mats is a close second

Frequently Asked Questions

This guide was last updated in March 2026. Prices reflect current New Jersey market rates and may vary based on your specific project requirements, material selection, and kitchen layout. All Foreverbuilt flooring projects include professional installation by licensed contractors.